Guys, want to look like a million bucks in an off-the-rack suit? Theo Ngobeni, the founder of Mr Slimfit, a styling service that caters to some of SA’s biggest stars, gives his six top tips on how to pick a suit off the rack and ensure it’s tailored to your exact specifications.
1. The suit jacket should always fit well on your shoulders as it is very difficult for a tailor to alter this part.
2. There are three kinds of hems you could opt for. The first is the no-break, where your trousers end just under the ankle bone. The second is the half-break, which is usually a half-inch hem. The full-break is an inch hem. If you’ve got a slim-fit suit, opt for the no- or half-break.
3. Most stylish guys want their jackets to have that flattering ‘V’ shape. A common mistake tailors make in trying to create this is to take in the jacket at the middle seam at the back. Instead, ask your tailor to take in the seams that run above the vents of a double-vent jacket.
4. The length of your jacket is critical. If it’s too long, the shape of the jacket can be compromised if it’s shortened. If it’s too short, it can look altered if it’s extended. To get this right, stand up with your arms stretched out at your sides and make a fist. Your jacket should end at the base of your fist.
5. If your jacket is slim-fit, your trousers need to be too. Ask your tailor to taper them using the inside seam.
6. Make sure the trousers fit well at the waist. If the waist fits comfortably but the trousers are too tight around your thighs, rather choose a waist size up. It’s much easier for a tailor to bring in the waist than to give you more breathing room around your thighs.
Fashion & styling: Kim Coe
Photography: Gareth van Nelson/hsmimages.co.za